Peru – Climbing Advanced Mountains


Northwest Slopes via the Garganta (Normal Route)

At 22,205 feet, Huascarán Sur is the highest mountain in Perú. It is truly a big mountin, creating its, own eather. The Garganta route provides a loto f glacier travel and big crevasses, along with unavodable avalanche hazards.  Get fit and cclimatized on other peaks, then attempt Huascarán, fast and light, in only 6 days.

First Ascent:  July 20, 1932, by H. Bernard, P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin and E. Schneider.

Elevation Gain:   3,740m from Musho; 750 from Camp 2.

Grade:  PD+/AD-

Time:  5 -7 days roundtrip from Musho, depending upon acclimatization.

Equipment:  Crampons, long ice axe,  60m rope, 02 ice crew and several snow pickets for potential crevasse rescue.


Southwest Ridge (Normal Route)

Chopicalqui is a little difficult than the intermediate difficulty of the 6,000m peaks in the range. Really nice views from two valleys Llanganuco and Ulta. Also Chopicalqui is known as the east peack of Huascarán. Chopicalqui is the highest, most beautiful peaks in the Cordillera Blanca with his ridge with a moderate snow climb to a spectaular Summit pyramid. 

First Ascent:  August 3, 1932, By H. Hoerlin, E. Scneider, P. Borchers, E. Hein.

Elevation Gain: 1,500m from Moraine Camp and 983m from High Camp.

Grade: D.

Time: 7-9 hours from high Camp. 5 days roundtrip from Huaraz City.

Equipment:  Crampons, 2 technical  axes,  02 60m ropes, 02 ice crew and ,  8 or more snow pickets for anchors and rescue crevasses.


Notheast Face (Normal Route)

Resembling a gigant fortress, Ranrapalca is climbed most easily via the northeast face. A long the route, you Will traverse a glacier, negotiate crevasses and ascend moderately steep snow and ice, along with a Little rock.  The slog across the Summit plateu Will be rewarded with an exciting finish.

First Ascent:  July 23, 1958, by G. Dionisi, P.Fornelli, L. Ghico, G, Marchese.

Elevation Gain:    862m from the Ishinca – Ranrapalca Col.

Grade:  D+

Time:  7-9 hours from the Ishinca-Ranrapalca Col.

Equipment: Helmet,  crampons, 02 technical axes,  02 60m ropes, several ice crews and, snow pickets, and few small – to médium – size cams (or the rock pitches near the Summit plateau and middle way)


Southwest Face Direct Route

Alpamayo was nominated “THE MOST BEAUTIFIL MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD” during a 1966 photographic exposition in Munich, Germany.  When viewed from Qebrada Santa Cruz, most people would disagree and wonder how it could carry this lofty title.  However, in the early days, Alpamayo (“muddy wáter” in Quechua) was approached from the north, via Quebrada Alpamayo.  When viewed from this valley, the peak looks like a perfect snow pyramid.

The route commonly rererred to as the Ferrari Route, but since 10 years ago we climbing the Direct route located on the southwest face.

First Ascent:  June 1983.

Elevation Gain:    327m from the bottom of the face.

Grade:  D+

Time:  6 -7 hours from the bottom of the face to the Summit.

Equipment: Helmet,  crampons, 02 technical axes,  02 60m ropes or longer, 12 to more ice crews, and 3 snow pickets. And lots of prusik rope to leave for ice anchor (Avalacof).

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